Thursday, June 4, 2009

Magical West Shore



The West Shore is perhaps the most alluring of Tahoe’s shores from the mouth of the Truckee River – Lake Tahoe’s only outlet – to the old Tahoe estates and sights along the shore to Homewood. 

The West Shore begins at the Tahoe City dam, which has regulated the flow of water from Lake Tahoe via the Truckee River since the first dam was built in the 1860s.

Heading south along the West Shore, the hamlet of Sunnyside is about 2.5 miles south of Tahoe City. (Caution: South of the first buoy field after leaving the Truckee River Outlet area, there is a large boat house at the site of the former Tahoe Tavern with many underwater hazards.)

As you reach the first bay, head to shore for a meal at one of the West Shore’s best restaurants, to stock up on supplies for your own picnic, or for marine services and gas. Sunnyside Resort is a popular spot for visitors and locals where you can grab a sandwich on the vast deck overlooking Lake Tahoe or dine in style inside the Chris Craft Room. Whatever your dining choice, be sure to ask for a slice of Hula Pie for dessert. The restaurant offers a complimentary water taxi and buoys for its patrons on a first-come, first-served basis.

Navigation aide: The lights from Sunnyside Resort can be used as an aide, along with the row of four lights from the private beach at Tahoe Park north of the resort. Heading north along the West Shore, you’ll see the row lights from Tahoe Park before Sunnyside comes into view.

Leaving Sunnyside and rounding the next point, you’ll enter Hurricane Bay with a more than 1.5-mile stretch of public beach. The rocky beach is a popular spot for sunbathers, and Hurricane Bay is an ideal spot of water skiing and boasts one of the best fishing spots on the lake. This also is one of Tahoe’s few public beaches where dogs are welcome.

Heading south, a small rocky outcropping hides a lagoon. The lagoon is the remnant of a failed attempt by two brothers in the 1980s to illegally build their own marina. As the story goes their construction project landed them in the slammer.

Continuing south, you’ll come upon Kaspian Picnic Area with public restrooms, picnic tables and barbecue grills (dogs also are welcome). This end of Hurricane Bay is generally less crowded and there’s a public access pier – it’s the only one without a gate. From the pier, head left on the bike trail to the restrooms and picnic area.

If you’re willing to walk a bit, head left from the pier along the bike trail to climb Eagle Rock, a volcanic outcropping towering above Lake Tahoe. This quick hike offers a panoramic view of Lake Tahoe and the Sierra Nevada; it’s about .2 miles from the beach.

McKinney Bay, home to the community of Homewood, lies south of Hurricane Bay. As you enter the bay, you’ll notice the majestic stone chalets of Fleur du lac built by Henry J. Kaiser in 1939 in only 29 days. The location for the winter home of Don Corleone in “The Godfather, Part II,” Fleur du lac is a private community featuring a rocked-in inland waterway, a red brownstone breakwater with a lighthouse, drive-in boat storage, a double swimming pool, amphibious plane landing and a water ski take off. Please respect the resident’s privacy and do not enter the marina.

Elegant, outdoor dining at West Shore Café is a great way to relax with tables arranged on its pier over Lake Tahoe and they offer complimentary water taxi and buoys for its guests.

Two marinas serve boaters at Homewood, with Homewood Marina on the north end and Obexer’s Marina to the south side. Both offer gas and pump services, along with a chandlery. If you want to stock up on supplies and grab a bite to eat, tie up at Obexer’s and visit Obexer’s Market featuring an espresso bar, deli and a upscale market, or cross Highway 89 to grab a bite at the Old Tahoe Café or Pisano’s Pizza.

Homewood is also the location for the Tahoe Maritime Museum, which pays tribute to Tahoe’s maritime history and houses Shanghai, a preserved launch from the 1860s that was resurrected from the bottom of the Lake and restored.

As you head out of the south side of McKinney Bay, you’ll come to one of Lake Tahoe’s most popular gathering spots – Chamber’s Landing. Located on the end of a pier, Chamber’s Landing Bar is said to the oldest bar on Lake Tahoe. It is famous for its Chamber’s Punch and is a popular viewing area for summer sunsets. Dogs also are welcome on the piers at Chamber’s Landing.

Navigation aide: The lighthouse at Fleur du lac marks the north end of McKinney Bay, with Chamber’s Landing rounding out the south end. In succession from north to south at night are the lights of Fleur du lac, Homewood Marina, West Shore Café, Obexer’s and Chamber’s. 

Continuing south are Sugar Pine Point State Park, Meek’s Bay, Rubicon Bay home of Tahoe’s Gold Coast, D.L. Bliss State Park and Emerald Bay. I’ll cover this section of the West Shore in a later column.